All
observations and opinions are my own. Your experiences may differ
widely from mine.
Obligatory
Disclaimer: I am not paid for these reviews, nor do I receive units
for free to review. I get no compensation for these independent
reviews whatsoever which leaves me free to give my completely
unbiased and honest opinion on whatever I am reviewing. I am not
printing for commercial profit.
Criteria
For The Review:
1.
Price and Delivery
2.
Ease of Assembly
3.
Ease of Use
4.
How Well It Works (Functionality)
5.
Customer Service
6.
Overall Score and Impressions
Explanation of Device:
The
3D Chameleon is the brainchild of Bill Steele who is both the
inventor and seller of the 3D Chameleon. The 3D Chameleon is a
mechanical device that attaches to your printer to allow up to four
colors to be used. The device switches the colors out as needed via
Gcode generated via your slicer. It is a relatively inexpensive way
to achieve color 3D printing without buying a printer specifically
for that purpose.
At
this time, the only slicer that is working with the 3D Chameleon is
PrusaSlicer. If you don't already use PrusaSlicer, the transition to
it isn't that difficult, though it does take some getting used to the
vast array of options. There are plenty of resources available online
to help the novice through the use of PrusaSlicer.
Price and Delivery
As of
this writing, the unit sells for $179.00 via the 3D Chameleon website
via PayPal. This does not include shipping. In my case, this brought
the total to approximately $195.00*. The delivery of the unit is via
standard USPS ground. This means it can take anywhere from 3 to 7
days (normally) to arrive in most places in the continental U.S.
The
lack of offering an expedited shipping is unusual, but only a slight
ding that the price of the unit easily compensates for. I would still
give this five stars out of five.
Ease of Assembly
The
landing page of the 3D Chameleon website states that it only takes an
hour to assemble. First, the unit I received came mostly assembled
already. Second, it definitely takes longer than an hour to assemble
to your printer unless you already have the proper mounting parts for
the 3D Chameleon itself and the activation switch. This was a problem
for my Neptune 3 Pro. The 3D Chameleon is packaged with a mount and a
switch, neither of which are suitable for the NP3 Pro. This meant
that I had to either find one that someone else had made or
remix/design my own. After quite a while of fruitless search, I came
to the conclusion that if someone had designed these, no one had
shared these mounts anywhere. I therefore wound up remixing my own
Top Mount and Switch Mount (both of these links are available at the
end of the review.) There is a third printed part that you will need
as well, this is a part that goes over the top of the extruder to
allow for the 3D Chameleon to connect to it. I give the link at the
end of this review.
Let
me give you a cautionary note here, unless you are very mechanically
inclined, I would recommend not opening the 3D Chameleon unit. As
loyal readers of my blog know, I am NOT the most mechanically
inclined person on the planet. Because of this, my opening the unit
caused major issues resulting in me eventually having to send the
unit back so that Bill Steele could look at and 'repair' what I had
done. If you feel you MUST open the unit, I recommend watching Bill's
videos on assembling the 3D Chameleon and then watching the videos
from Chris Riley of Chris's basement
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUYJseo78tI)
before you do.
What
you will essentially be doing when you assemble the 3D Chameleon to
your NP3 Pro (or above) will be to turn it into a Direct Drive/Bowden
hybrid. You may want to trim the Bowden tubes so that they fit better
(make sure you have enough length on each to reach everywhere on your
printer.) When you do this, I recommend taking each tube out of the
Y-Tube that comes with the 3D Chameleon and trimming from that end.
This way you do not have to disassemble the 3D Chameleon itself. Make
sure you are getting a completely straight cut. Mr. Steele provides a
cutting tool or razor blade and a small fixture for this to make it
easier.
Attaching
the activation switch to your printer is much easier now with the
mount that I have remixed. Initially, I attempted to mount the switch
on the Z axis with the mount that comes with the unit. Some people
with Neptune 4's did it this way. I do NOT recommend this unless you
are the type of person that enjoys sitting and watching paint dry.
The Z axis is very slow and will likely increase your print time by
two or three times easily.
The
mount I remixed goes on the Y axis of your printer, on the left as
you face the printer and all the way at the front. If you follow Bill
Steele's instructions on how to determine the distance to the switch
you should be okay, but just in case, remember that 'zero' on the NP3
Pro (and above) is not the front left corner (which puts the bed all
the way in the back.) You need to ignore that part and push or move
the bed (Y axis) all the way back, then, using your control panel
move it until it just activates the switch. You will be using the
10mm Y axis move for most of that and then switch to the 1mm and
finally to the .1mm, keeping count the whole way. I did this a few
times to verify it (mine came to 197.5mm.) This is important. Making
sure that you are at the point where the red light on the switch just
comes on is crucial to your timing.
I did
not need to cut the Bowden tube coming out of the Y-Tube and into the
extruder as it was the right length to seat properly and reach all
places on the printer without a problem. I did trim the Bowden tubes
coming out of the 3D Chameleon core unit which I now feel was a
mistake. This trimming should be done where the tubes enter the
Y-Tube.
Frankly,
most, but not all, of my assembly problems were self inflicted. The
claim of 'assembles in one hour' is a bit misleading to me and should
come with a caveat about needing the proper mounts. I know that isn't
great marketing, but it is more realistic. I think that Mr. Steele
should also explain to people about where to make the cuts on the
Bowden tubes if they want to shorten them and dissuade people from
taking the unit apart. As I said, it is probably very easy if you are
mechanically inclined, but if you are a typically a 'user' as I am,
then you may run into problems (I am at over four weeks of owning
the unit and not making a single part at this point.)
Another
caution that I will give relates to the use of the remixed Top Mount
that holds the 3D Chameleon. This causes the unit to be upside down.
There is a very small gear that is used in the 3D Chameleon (2mm in
length) that, on my unit, was not tightened down properly and fell
out during assembly. It took me quite a while to find it and I had to
disassemble the unit to put it back in and tighten it down. If you
watch Chris Riley's assembly video, he shows where and how this has
to be done.
Since
at least 99% of the issues I had were of my own making, I am going to
give Assembly Four and a Half stars out of five.
Ease of Use
This
is where things got pretty sticky for me. It boils down to the Gcode
for using the 3D Chameleon. On the 3D Chameleon website there are two
methods listed for generating the Gcode you need. The first, Mode 2
Gcode, the second is Mode 3 Gcode. If you select Mode 2, it will ask
you for the Axis you have placed the switch on, the distance in mm,
and the length from the top of your extruder (the gears) to the
Hotend. Once entered, it will generate the Gcode for you copy and
paste into the Tool Change G-Code section of PrusaSlicer. If you have
watched Bill Steele's videos, you will have a pretty good idea of
what to do from there. On this same page, near the bottom, are a list
of additional switch presses (pulses) and what they will do. Once
your filament is loaded, it is advisable to ALWAYS HOME your unit
before printing (7 pulses.)
Speaking
of loading filament, this can be difficult at times. If you watch
Chris Riley's videos, he will show you a way that makes it slightly
easier.
In
Mode 3 you will be asked the Axis the switch is on, the switch
location or distance in mm, the Backout distance in seconds, and the
length from the top of the extruder (the gears) to the Hotend. The
Backout distance is the time, in seconds, it takes for the filament
to exit back to the starting point. Here, one second equals one inch
of distance.
You now need to go
into the Gcode and make some changes. If you don't know Gcode, this
can be a little daunting. I did not know Gcode before I started
working with the 3D Chameleon but I HAD to learn at least some.
Interestingly, while doing this, Bill discovered a change that he
needed to make to the Gcode generators thanks to some of the issues I
was having. To help me understand Gcode a little better, Bill
suggested I watch a video by CNC Kitchen:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TByiMNduss&pp=ygURY25jIGtpdGNoZW4gZ2NvZGU%3D
He also provided a list of Gcode commands:
https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/
While
of this is good to know, what is important is that you get your
timing correct for the switch. First, near the beginning the Gcode
(roughly the second paragraph,) you will find a line that has G0 YXXX
F2000 ; <<-----EDIT THIS LINE TO SET THE INITAL LOCATION OF
THE BUTTON. The number will be slightly different than the one you
entered, I usually change it back to the number I entered (i.e. it is
3mm less than your original number.) From there, the fun really
starts.
You
will need to go down to a line that starts with G4 P500. This is the
start of your timing for button or switch presses. There are four of
the P500, P1000, P1500, and P2000. All of these were far too long for
my NP3 Pro. You will probably have to experiment but mine came out
much closer to P250, P770, P1180, and P1675. This is important and
you should be able to hear the number of pulses for each. It is
smarter to do this without filament in the 3D Chameleon and applies
to both the Mode 2 and Mode 3.
The
difference between Mode 2 and Mode 3 is that Mode 2 is far more
automatic. It generates a standard 10” Extrude and 11” Retract
with a single press for each of the color changes after it pulses to
the proper 'extruder' or color. Mode 3 requires that there is the
initial press to change to the proper extruder or color, then a
second press to retract the current filament and a third press to
extrude the next color. I actually prefer Mode 3 as it gives me more
control over the timing of the unit.
One
thing to note that was not very clear to me. Bill Steele states that
the filament should be loaded to 1” above the Y-Tube. Let me
clarify exactly what he told me. Measure one inch above one of
the top branches of the Y-Tube from the green plastic portion (not
the black connector) and load your filament to that point. Every
other filament should be at exactly that same place, not 1” above
their selected branch. To me, this seemed counterintuitive for
loading and retracting the filament, but it works as it is somehow
compensated for in the programming.
Honestly,
it was ridiculously difficult for me to find the proper timing for my
pulses especially in Mode 3. Remember when I said earlier that the
bed should just barely activate the switch? This is why, you want it
to be able to back off very quickly once it is done.
As
you read further down in the Gcode, you will see places where it
wants you to adjust and fine tune E values for Extruder loading. This
is another 'experimental' distance that you have to determine in
order to make sure that you get all the way down to the Hotend and
back out all the way from it.
Another
thing you will need to deal with is 'Tip Shaping.' The Gcode for
this, as it stands, does not work well for my NP3 Pro. It had to be
modified. This is the Gcode I had to have in order to make Tip
Shaping work:
;<<<
Start Of Tip Shaping- Remove If No Cutter! >>>
M109 R180;
cool down to prevent swelling
M302 S0 ; enable cold extrusion
M106
S255
G0 E20 F1500 ;
G0 E-5 F500 ;
M109 R165; cool down to
prevent swelling
G0 E5 F1500 ;
G0 E-1 F500 ;
M109 R155; cool
down to prevent swelling
G0 E1 F1500 ;
G0 E-25 F500 ;
M109
R150; cool down to prevent swelling
G0 E24 F1500 ; last tip dip
with cold tip
G0 E-24 ; last tip dip with cold tip
M109 R180;
ok... go back up in temp so we can move the extruder
G0 E-110 F500
; back out of the extruder
G92 E0
M104 S200;
;<<<
End Of Tip Shaping >>>
This
replaces the 'standard' Tip Shaping that is generated in BOTH Mode 2
and Mode 3.
If
you get a 3D Chameleon, feel free to copy and paste this.
Next,
you need to let PrusaSlicer know that you are using four colors. This
is done in the Printer Settings tab under General > Capabilities >
Extruders. Here you will put in 4 and underneath that check the box
that says Single Extruder Multi Material. Extruders 1 through 4 will
then show up. You can go to each and change the color here if you
like. Save this by going to the top line next to the box with the
name of your printer in it and choosing the first item (it looks like
a list.) If you want to rename it, you can do that first by clicking
on the box that looks like a piece of paper with a pencil on it.
You
need to turn off PrusaSlicer's own tip shaping by setting several
parameters to zero.
Look
at the diagram below:
You
need to save this or you will lose it. Again, the top box that looks
like a list will let you save.
At
this point you should be ready to test. Make sure you have your
filament loaded in each Bowden Tube to the 1” above the Y-Tube. If
you have watched Bill's videos you know that each hole with a Bowden
Tube in it is given a designation T0, T1, T2, and T3. So, something
that might make your life a little easier, tag each one of your
Bowden Tubes with the proper designation, this way you will always
know which one is being used at any given time. Someone has created
printable 'Identifiers' for this at
https://www.printables.com/model/529004-ptfe-tube-identifier
I have not tried these myself, I'd rather just use a label, but that
is personal preference.
So,
after all of that how would I rate Ease of Use?
Because
of all the time involved in experimentation to find the proper timing
and adjusting of Gcode (which you will likely be tweaking
constantly,) I have to give this Four stars out of five.
How
Well It Works
This
area had mixed results for me. For some very simple or basic items
that only required one tool change (i.e. two colors) there was no
issue. When I tried to move into more complex items that required
multiple tool changes I experienced jamming after a few cycles. The
jamming was due to one or more of the filaments not properly
retracting out of the extruder and another filament attempting to
load. To get any reliable results at all, you MUST pay
attention to Bill Steele's videos on how to bring a multi-part,
multicolor object into PrusaSlicer and the FAQ's (under
Troubleshooting) on Tip Shaping. Jamming means that you would lose
any long print unless you were there to clear the jam before the next
filament was able to load. Very few of us can be there 100% of the
time for a really long print. You can eliminate or greatly reduce the
probability of jamming by getting your Tip Shaping right. An improper
tip will cause your filament to get stuck in the extruder when it
should be moving out prior to the normal retraction.
Also,
please remember, you WILL waste quite a bit of filament for your
color printing. THIS IS NORMAL FOR ANY COLOR PRINTING. You need to
have a purge tower in order to clear one filament in the nozzle
before you begin printing with the next. Color printing is also much
slower than using a single filament. In the case of the 3D Chameleon,
it not only has to change to the next color and clear the previous
color, it also has to move the Y axis to the switch. All of this adds
to the time for printing.
Once
we figured out the jamming issue, things seemed to go much smoother.
I will give the 3D Chameleon Four and a Half stars out of five for
functionality based on the issues I had.
Customer
Service
The
customer service is very good. Bill Steele is very responsive both in
Email and on the 3D Chameleon Forum (on the website.) Because he has
another full-time job, it may take him a little while to get back to
you, but he always did respond to me. As I stated near the beginning
of this review, I had issues with my unit to the point where Bill
asked me to return the core unit. He reviewed what was wrong with it
and repaired it for me (I paid return shipping, he paid for shipping
back to me.)
Overall
Score and Impressions
My
overall rating with the following:
Price
and Delivery – 5 out of 5
Ease
of Assembly – 4.5 out of 5
Ease
of Use – 4 out of 5
How
Well It Works – 4.5 out of 5
Customer
Service - 5 out of 5
Overall
Rating = 4.6 Stars
Final
Impressions
The
3D Chameleon is an interesting piece of equipment. For less than
$200.00 it claims that it can turn any 3D printer into a four-color
printer. This appears to be the case on the Neptune 3 Pro, after a
lot of fiddling. It is not a plug-and-play solution. At present, this
is a hobbyist's add-on requiring quite a bit of additional effort to
make it work properly. There is nothing wrong with that since many of
the printers out there require some level of constant 'tinkering'. As
I stated earlier, by far, the vast majority of my issues with the
unit were self-inflicted (deciding to trim my Bowden tubes from the
motor side rather than Y-Tube was probably the first mistake I made.)
If you can avoid opening the unit, do so. I would have had to open
mine regardless, since one of the gears fell out. From there, my
issues seemed to multiply (springs were suddenly in the wrong place
which did not allow the unit to close properly, the Bowden tubes in
the unit were crushed, etc.) If it were not for Bill Steele's
kindness and patience, I would likely not have kept working at it.
If
I wanted another color printer would I buy one of these units
instead, again? Most likely. Spending anywhere from $700 to $2000 for
a color printer simply isn't in the realm of probability for someone
on a fixed income such as myself. Buying a $200 to $250 printer and
putting another $200 into it is much easier on my budget.
One
more note, as you go through the 3D Chameleon website you
will probability hear about something called the 3D Clippy. This is a
part that you would print and put on top of your printer extruder
that cuts the end of the filament so you have clean end to work with.
I have not been able to find or design one that will
work with the Neptune 3 Pro. If you happen to design one that works,
please DO let me know and put in a link to the .stl
file.
The
link below will take you to my NP3 Pro (and above) 3D Chameleon
Mounts:
https://www.printables.com/model/766297-3dchameleon-np3-pro-mounts
Bowden
Tube Adapter Mount:
https://www.printables.com/model/655985-neptune-4-filiment-guide-bowden-mount
3D
Chameleon website: https://www.3dchameleon.com
Switch
location NP3 Pro
Shroud
Mount/Bowden Tube Adapter
(Yeah,
I know, I wasn't going for pretty, just functional...)